On simple living & greener pastures

Marlboro Hills, Uyugan, South Batan

Pretty sure when God created paradise He actually had Batanes in mind with its pristine shores and green pastures where all his creations can run around freely and mind their own businesses. True enough, that's exactly how it was when we went around the islands. Views? Check. Friendly locals? Check. Affordable seafood? Check. Farm animals roaming around and eating their hearts out (also my favorite thing in this trip as a non-meat eater 💓)? Check!

First thing you should know though: The internet connection and phone signals are not stable here. Admittedly something I wasn't quite prepared for but I apparently needed. I guess eventually you just realize how much you don't really need it. *proceeds to update this online journal  anyway LOL*

Batanes has been in my travel bucket list since college and it's nice to finally be able to visit and explore. We stayed for 4 days and 3 nights at Pension Ivatan, a small hotel in Basco which was conveniently located right behind the airport, and toured Batan and Sabtang throughout our stay. Did you know there are a total of 11 islands in Batanes? However, only 3 of them are inhabited—Batan, Sabtang, and Itbayat (which we didn't get to visit but will definitely be back for it).

After each tour, we had the rest of the afternoon to ourselves where we'd walk and get lost around town until nightfall, find possible dinner places along the way and figure out which of the dark alleyways would lead us back to the hotel, it's almost like a game. Then to cap the night, a scheduled home service massage where we met Ate Ding, our favorite masseuse in Basco. So yeah, just a typical vacation routine that we already miss. 🥹

Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint, Sabtang Island

Each site has their own charm but if I have to pick a favorite, it's got to be Sabtang Island with its post card view from Chamantad, Morong Beach with its white sand, unique shells and sea glasses all over, and the native stone houses and villages where the Ivatans are mostly known for since the area's prone to unpredictable weather, earthquakes and even tsunamis. It's how the locals have adapted over time, constructing houses with lime and stones and cogon grass as roofs, an incredibly sustainable way to maintain their shelter.

Fun fact: Cogon grass roofs can last up to 25-30 years before it needs to be replaced. We were able to take shelter in one of the old stone houses in Savidug, one of the neighborhoods in Sabtang, while we were resting and it was surprisingly cool inside!

 

The strong, cold winds of amihan (northeast monsoon) also made the scorching heat much more bearable with the help of regular applications of sun block, of course. On top of that, they're a smoke-free municipality too. The air couldn't get any fresher than that. We just felt lucky to experience Batanes with a steady and relatively calm weather all throughout (Thank you, Lord! Thank you, universe!) when it's usually unpredictable to the point that flights get cancelled for days due to strong winds according to our tour guides.

Note: Timing is the ultimate key to maximize your visit here. It took us more than a month of weather surveillance and non-stop prayers before we finally booked our flight.

Vayang Rolling Hills, Basco, North Batan (video)

Ah yes, me and my new found love for hilltop winds and landscapes.

The Vayang Rolling Hills was also quite remarkable because I'm sure I saw more cows and goats in the area than I saw people LOL I see how they've preserved their natural resources! But on a serious note, the total population of Batanes is about 19,000 as of 2020 which is just about .0015% of Manila's current population (13,484,482 as of 2020).

Yeah... let that sink in and think about it every time you complain about the city crowd and traffic.

Basco Lighthouse, North Batan (video)

Waiting shed by the Valugan Boulder Beach, North Batan

(Paintings commissioned by the LGU to their local artists during the pandemic)

  

Madangay Point, South Batan

We had extra time on our last day after the tour and rented a motorcycle to ride around South Batan and explore stores and cafes in the area. There are also bicycles available for rent at around 150, I think. There are also diving spots around the area and if you've stayed long enough, and with their permission, you can join the locals in their daily activities too (fishing, etc.) What a solid way to experience life in the island, don't you think? 

Not pictured but some of our favorite stops also include:

• Harbour Cafe - Sinigang na Hipon for sharing @ 350?!
• Casa Napoli - for reasonably priced, great-tasting brick-oven pizza
• Cacagana - for filling burgers + hindi tinipid na fish and chips!
• Honesty Coffee Shop - for souvenirs, snacks, and accessories; we got sea glass necklaces for 100 each 💓

Just additional tips for anyone else planning to take the trip:

1. As mentioned earlier, internet connection and phone signals are unstable across the islands. Smart seems to have better and stronger connection in some parts though.
2. All tours must be accompanied by an accredited local tour guide. No DIY tours are allowed as of March 2023.
3. There are no malls, cinemas, fast foods, and big grocery stores here—another good thing about Batanes, in my opinion. Everyone is encouraged to support the local convenience stores and shops instead.
4. Landbank and PNB are the only available banks here. Most establishments are on a cash basis only. GCash is rarely available.
5. Always bring your own bag. Use of plastic bags to carry grocery items are prohibited—at least in the stores that we went to.
6. Plan ahead but always check the weather forecast and report in the area. Weather forecasts are only reliable within 1-2 weeks prior your selected date. Stay mindful.
7. Always bring your sunblock and mosquito repellent lotions with you.
8. Don't forget to pack some outerwear especially if you're planning to ride around town because it gets chilly at night. (I only packed one cardigan and it wasn't enough LOL)

So our trip may have been short and sweet but all biases aside, please do yourselves a favor and experience Batanes at least once in your life. I mean, if you can travel outside the country, there's no reason you can't visit our local provinces first. See, there's just something about exploring places that are far less traveled. x

Final verdict: ★★★★☆